Tuesday, February 9, 2010

How Playa Grande kicked my butt

Sometimes nonresistance means getting schooled. I am not a good surfer. Mediocre would be stretching it. None the less I rented a board and joined Ian (expert surfer), Elisa (proud owner of a custom made fishtail from Nicaragua), and Rick (trekked to Costa Rica specifically for the surf) along the twenty minute hike to Playa Grande. Unlike the first day when the waves were small and gave just enough push for a fun ride, four foot and six foot waves formed just beyond the first break.

While the three surfers coasted past the break, I spet most of the time paddling frantically to beat the breaking waves that just pummled me back. Five strokes forward, eight strokes back. I guess it could have been frustrating. It was certainly tirig. But it was also really fun and there was no way in heck I was going to give up. I finally made it pas the break where the others were catching some sweet rides. Rick caught a nice drop, short and steep. Elisa seemed to ride one afterthe other, and as always Ian caught some sick rides (Rick caught one on film and almost got rammed by Ian in the process).

Out there I took a pounding. Graduate schools should ask their prospective students if they have engaged in any activities between graduation and now that would impair their academic capabilities. After some good whomps on the head by waves and the board, I would have to say yes.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

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